CTP Tech
InTheGarageMedia.com
matte black 1986 C10
THE SPEEDWAY MOTORS 1968 C10
Rust Repair, Bodywork, and Paint
BY Joe McColloughIMAGES BY Jessica Coleman & Andy Chaves
I

f you’ve been following along with our 1968 C10 project, you’ve seen us checking all the fun stuff off our to-do list. Blast, paint, and reassemble a chassis with cool stuff to lower the truck? Check. Build up a junkyard 5.3 with a cam swap and valvetrain components to make 430 hp on the dyno? Check. Now for the part we’ve been putting off: that rotten, dented, yellow spray-bombed cab and sheetmetal. Fortunately, we found everything we needed on the shelf at Speedway Motors to replace the mangled original parts with fresh, new sheetmetal. Then, with all the cutting, welding, and grinding complete, we hit up our friends at No Coast Custom and Rod Shop to help us get things lined up, straightened out, and painted in time for the 2023 SEMA Show.  

To get us started, Ben Vaneperen and the crew at No Coast helped us get the cab mounted on a rolling cart that would make it easy to move around the shop and allow us access to the floor, rockers, and cab corners. We elected to install a full floor that was complete from rocker to rocker, cab back to toeboard, and already had all the supports attached underneath. This may seem like a drastic move, but we can tell you that it made a huge difference in the quality of the finished product and the time it took to get there.

Knowing that the old floor was going to be removed, our first step was to brace the cab with square tubing to keep everything square while the surgery was underway. This step is very important to avoid huge alignment issues when everything starts going back together. Bracing in place, we got to work removing the old floor with a cutoff wheel, plasma cutter, and Sawzall. After one long night the floor was out, and Vaneperen’s shop was covered with 50 years’ accumulation of dirt, rust, and mice nests. From there it was off to the blaster then back to No Coast for a coat of epoxy primer to protect the bare metal. Finally, after a little wrestling to get the new floor into position and tacked in place, we found ourselves sitting on solid ground in our cab for the first time.  

We spent some time building small pieces to replace rotten sections of the toeboard before fully welding the new floor in place. With that major milestone complete, we were ready to cut out our bracing and move on. Our next move would be to tackle the other area that’s famous for being rotten in these trucks: rockers and cab corners. But before we could start fitting the new metal, we needed to hang the doors to ensure we were attaching the new panels in the right place.  

With the doors in place and aligned we chose to hit the rockers first. Our reproduction pieces fit with minimal tweaking and some hammer and dolly work. They were then held in place with Clecos but left loose while we fit the cab corners. Vaneperen showed us a neat trick to hold the new cab corner panels in place. Instead of just cutting a straight line and trying to clamp the replacement piece in place, Vaneperen instead created little tabs that can be held on with Clecos while positioning and tacking. The tabs are then zipped off with the cutoff wheel for final finishing. Pretty slick plus it saved the usual wrestling match with Vise-Grips and other clamps trying to hold the new metal.  

Our cab was really starting to shape up. The cab corners and rockers were fully welded and we cleaned up some small areas of rust on the firewall. We were starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel after fearing that the cutting and welding would never end, but what about the rest of the sheetmetal? If you recall, the original box for this truck had long since vanished and the original front fenders and hood were pretty mangled. We once again hit the shelves at Speedway Motors for new fenders, a hood, and everything we would need to assemble a new box.  

After the long struggle to solidify the cab, it was a nice change of pace for us to spend a morning in the shop assembling a Fleetside short box from all-new components. We chose a steel bed floor, 1968-1972 bedsides, new front panel, and a smooth tailgate. In just a few hours we were looking at a solid new box ready to bolt up. No cutting, welding, grinding, or straightening out 50 years’ worth of use and abuse.  

At this point, the chassis had been put together in our shop while the cab was being straightened out across town at No Coast. Before we started fine-tuning the bodywork, we figured we’d better do a quick mock-up to make sure there were no interference issues. If we’re being honest, we really just wanted an excuse to put it all together to get a glimpse of the finished product.  

Fortunately, everything fit just as it should. We also verified that the Speedway Motors steering column, brake booster, and master cylinder were going to work as intended. With a few more boxes checked, we took a few minutes to step back and take a look at our mostly complete C10 for the first time. There was still a long way to go but seeing a preview of the lowered and straightened hot rod pickup that we’d been daydreaming about for so long got us revved up to push across the finish line. We had committed to having the finished truck in the Speedway Motors booth at the 2023 SEMA Show, which meant we had about six months to wrap everything up.  

Time to head back to the body shop. Here’s where the guys at No Coast really helped us raise the bar. The reproduction sheetmetal fit well, and many of us would have been tempted to leave the panel gaps as they were. Vaneperen and the crew helped us take the fitment to the next level with plenty of tweaking, adjusting, and adding metal to the edges.  

It’s hard to sum up months of hard work into one paragraph. Bodywork is where many projects stall out, but thanks to the dedication of Vaneperen and the No Coast crew as well as a Speedway Motors team that was determined to see the project through, all those late nights and early mornings began to pay off. We’ve learned to look for little victories when you’re in the middle of a big job like this, and with each day that passed we were able to check a few more things off the list. The box was finished up first, then the cab as every wrinkle and low spot was filled and blocked.   

With just a few weeks to go before our SEMA deadline, it was finally time for paint. Though our truck was now nicer than we had ever imagined it would be, we still wanted to finish it in a way that would allow us to use it and abuse it out on the road as intended without being terrified of every rock and bug. We chose a two-stage gray pearl color that fit the vintage vibe of the truck with just a bit of a modern twist. The flat clear helped us avoid the trap of having something that was too nice to drive, and we also happen to love the way these trucks look with a satin finish on them. The top was painted white with gloss clear to add some contrast.  

We didn’t have much time to celebrate the completion of the paint- and bodywork. Our deadline was looming and we had a long way to go. That meant more late nights, more early mornings, and more tasks checked off the list. The Speedway Motors wiring harness and completion of the fuel system allowed us to start it for the first time. The interior started to come together with carpet, a cool-looking side-detent shifter, and a seat frame that would allow us to run bucket seats. It was all hands on deck to carefully hang the freshly painted sheetmetal and install the lights and brightwork.  

Did we make it? How did the truck come out? While you’ll have to stay tuned for next month’s installment to find out all the details, we will say that we’re absolutely in love with the end result and hope you will be, too!

man removing flooring inside of the truck cab
1. We decided to replace the entire floor, so our first move was to remove what was left of the original. Note the square tube bracing the cab so nothing gets out of shape while the floor is out.
two men working together to move original flooring
2. While we’ve certainly seen worse, the original floor was going to need some work to replace the cab mount brackets and other areas that were thin or rusted through.  
cab after floor is cutout and epoxy primer is applied
3. With the cab all braced up and the floor cut out, the cab was blasted and immediately coated with epoxy primer to protect it.
closeup of rocker panel
4. The lower door pillars are hidden but are often found to be rusty when the rocker panels are removed. We patched ours with replacement pieces with PNs 92636278 (LH) and 92636279 (RH) before moving onto the rockers.
view of complete floor pan
5. The Complete Floor Pan (PN 92637400) saved us a ton of time patching and repairing the original floor.
person wearing welding safety gear welding the flooring back in place
6. Holes were punched in the rear flange on the floor in preparation for rosette welding to the cab’s back panel.
person kneeling down to work on the cab corners and rockers
7. With the new floor in place, we were ready to move onto the cab corners and rockers. But first we hung the doors so we were sure to get the new metal positioned properly.
closeup of person's arms using a hammer to position rockers in place
8. Replacement sheetmetal will always take a little maneuvering in order to fit properly. Our rockers were no exception, but a little hammer and dolly work allowed them to drop right into place.  
closeup of Clecos holding panel in place
9. Here’s a neat trick for holding patch panels in place. The small tabs allow Clecos to hold the panel for fitting and welding, then get carefully removed with a cutoff wheel once a few tacks are in place. This is especially handy in places where clamping is difficult.
finished cab, corner, and rocker
10. The finished cab corner and rocker are much better than the rusty, thin, original sheetmetal. 
cab with new pieces installed
11. Our old cab is starting to shape up. Here you can see where some new pieces were fabricated where the new floor met the old toeboard.
firewall with holes patched up
12. We filled the unnecessary holes in the firewall using a combination of patches that we made and handy 18-gauge plugs from a Speedway Motors shaved handle and smooth firewall kit (PN 9101203).  
finished cab
13. It took a lot of time and a whole bunch of replacement sheetmetal, but our rusty and dented old cab was good as new again. Now time to tackle the rest of the truck. 
two men carrying new bed floor panel
14. Our C10’s original box disappeared long before we got it, so we ordered up all the necessary pieces to build a brand-new Fleetside shortbed, starting with this steel Complete Bed Floor Panel (PN 92637268). 
two men assembling new box for truck bed
15. New bedsides, PNs 92636354 (LH) and 92636355 (RH), dropped right into place.  
finished matte black bed box
16. It only took us a few hours to fully assemble our brand-new box. Be sure to spec the proper front panel as they are different for a steel floor and a wood floor.  
cab and truck bed put together
17. After hours upon hours of hard work, we were finally able to get a sneak preview of what the truck was going to look like. We hung the new front fenders, PNs 92632209 (LH) and 92632210 (RH), and were stoked to see our vision starting to come together.  
truck mock-up missing hood and tailgate
18. Here’s another view of our mocked-up pickup. At this point we were very tempted to throw in some glass and wiring and hit the road.  
replacement metal fit to truck mock-up
19. The replacement sheetmetal fit quite well, but back at No Coast Custom and Rod Shop, the crew helped us get the gaps and panel flow completely dialed.  
new hood attached to front of truck
20. More panel fit with the new hood (PN 92637273) in place. This can be a frustrating process, but getting every panel lined up is critical to everything that will follow. 
new sheetmetal of truck bed undergoing shaping
21. Around back, the stake pockets were filled on the bedsides and bodywork was underway to further refine the shape of the new sheetmetal. 
closeup of truck after shaping is complete and truck is prepped for primer and filler work
22. Metalwork done and time for primer and filler work. 
man sanding tailgate of pickup truck
23. Vaneperen starts filler work on the replacement smooth tailgate (PN 92637270) by blocking the epoxy primer to reveal the high and low spots.  
truck after filling, sanding, and primer
24. Fill, sand, prime, repeat. Bodywork can be a tedious task but the No Coast crew made it look easy. 
truck with final coat of polyester primer applied
25. The final coat of polyester primer marked the first time our truck was all one color.  
yellow tape lining the edges of the truck with final blocking and guidecoat applied
26. One final round of blocking with guidecoat. The tape helps keep the body lines crisp.  
person wearing plastic suit and mask applying paint to the pickup truck build
27. Time for paint! The gray pearl was a custom mix and contrasts nicely with the white top. 
cab with with satin clear and grey gloss paint applied
28. We chose a satin clear for the gray and gloss on the top. We love the way satin paint looks on the body lines of these 1967-1972 trucks. Gloss was chosen for the top for even more contrast.
cab of truck installed onto chassis without truck bed
29. Back in the Speedway Motors shop, we were under the gun to get everything ready in time for our SEMA deadline.
A Speedway Motors 22-circuit wiring harness
30. A Speedway Motors 22-circuit wiring harness (PN 91064022) was chosen for our truck. These are universal fit, so we were able to mount it high inside the firewall and hide the wires behind the wheelwell.  
man working on installing ivory shift knob and Billet Shift Lever
31. A Speedway Motors Side Detent Shifter (PN 9165000) allowed us to use the cool ivory shift knob and Billet Shift Lever (PN 91603269). 
almost finished truck build missing tires with hood open
32. So close yet so far. This photo was taken very late at night with just a few hours before the truck was scheduled to be on the trailer for SEMA. Check back next month to find out if we made it!
SOURCE