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Ford pickup with a high-performance V8 engine build, featuring an Edelbrock intake and custom headers
1. Owner Chris Edge and his son are rebuilding the 1963 F-100 he drove daily while he was in the military. Of course a ride like this deserves a unique engine with plenty of cubic inches pushing mountains of torque. That’s why we chose to go with a 408ci Clevor.
Frankenstein Ford … aka The Clevor!
A Windsor Bottom End With Cleveland Cylinder Heads and Intake for the Ultimate Old-School Hybrid
BY Jeff HuneycuttIMAGES BY THE AUTHOR
T

hese days, when you talk about hybrids related to anything automotive, everybody assumes you’re talking about combining electric and gasoline motors. But if you go a little old school, “hybrid” has a totally different meaning. And that’s what we’re doing.

We’re building a Frankenstein hybrid, taking the best components from two engines that weren’t originally designed to work together and combining them into one big-inch beast. The combo is Ford Cleveland cylinder heads, intake, and some other pieces combined with a Ford Windsor bottom end (block, crank, pistons, camshaft). Appropriately, the name for this hybrid takes the name of the two engines (Cleveland and Windsor) and mushes them together to come up with “Clevor.”

The benefit of building a Clevor is to get the best of both worlds when it comes to the Windsor and Cleveland engine designs. By far the most famous iteration of the Cleveland/Windsor combo came from FoMoCo itself when they put Cleveland heads on a smaller 302 block to come up with the high-revving Boss 302, which made waves in Trans Am racing back in the day.

We, however, want big inches and even bigger torque, so we’ll be working with a bigger 351 Windsor block and then throwing in even more stroke. The Windsor block architecture has many advantages over its Cleveland cousin. Namely, it’s lighter thanks to an aluminum timing cover, has better oiling with a dedicated oil gallery, prioritizing oil to the main journals, and has tremendous aftermarket support. The Cleveland, meanwhile, has a cylinder head designed with a canted-valve arrangement. This means the intake and exhaust valves are angled just a bit in toward each other so when they open they open away from the cylinder wall for better breathing than a wedge-style valve arrangement like you will find in Windsor heads. But Ford didn’t produce the Cleveland for nearly as long or in the same numbers as the Windsor, so not only are good original components hard to find these days, the engine also doesn’t enjoy the same level of aftermarket support.

Fortunately, both the Cleveland and Windsor design share several key measurements that make putting Cleveland heads on a Windsor block possible. They share the same 4.380-inch bore spacing and head bolt pattern, so bolting a Cleveland head to a Windsor block isn’t an issue at all. What’s more, they even share the same valve arrangement and firing order, so you can even use a stock Windsor camshaft.

The main problem comes from the fact that they have very different cooling systems. The Cleveland exits hot coolant out of the block and the intake manifold is dry, but on the Windsor coolant flows through the block up into the cylinder heads and then through a coolant port in the base of the intake manifold before exiting. To make the Clevor cool properly, you usually must drill a few holes in both the block and the cylinder heads. But really, it’s not that difficult or intimidating. We’ll show you exactly what we did to make it work like a charm.

Since this is Classic Truck Performance, it would only be right for this engine to wind up in a righteously cool Ford pickup—and that’s exactly what is going to happen (eventually). We’re working with Chris Edge, an Army vet who is restoring his 1963 F-100 with his son. Edge drove the pickup while he was on active duty because it was the only thing he could afford. The previous owner had swapped out the original straight-six for a Cleveland and painted it bright yellow.

Edge painted the truck a much cooler shade of blue himself in his own shop and is slowly bringing it back into fighting shape. We offered to help out with the old Cleveland, but after teardown it was obvious the cylinders had already been bored to their limits. We already had a Ford Windsor block just sitting in the shop that had been used for an earlier build project but had never been run except for the dyno. So we grabbed it up and that became our excuse to go totally overboard and build a big-inch Clevor.

For you classic truck fans—especially when it comes to Fords—there are several reasons we’re bringing you this Clevor build. First, as we’ve already mentioned, the build combines the best of the Cleveland and Windsor engines. If you have a truck with either a 302 or 351 Windsor engine in it, this will bolt right up. Second, it’s unique and looks cool. Everyone is looking for something different, and a Clevor is definitely an engine combo that will help you stand out at the car shows. Or you can go with a smaller 302 block and build a 302 Boss replica. Our biggest goal with this build was to make tons of reliable torque on pump gas, so we went big and ended up with a 408ci stump puller.

Yes, there have been some incredibly fast classic trucks built—and we’ve covered many of them here in these pages—but most builds keep their classic truck heritage. American iron deserves tire-shredding torque and that’s exactly what we’re doing with this build!

Engine block prepared for assembly with bore machining and precision detailing
2. The block is a Ford Windsor 351, but it is a bit unique because it is a Ford Performance Parts race block that we had previously used for dyno testing. The main reason we chose it was because we already had it sitting in the corner of the shop. But it does have a few extra coolant passage holes that will come into play later. We took it to the shops of Automotive Specialists in Concord, NC, for machinework. The bores were knocked out 0.030 inch to 4.030, but the deck and main bores were still good, so we left them alone.
Crankshaft and main bearings installed in an engine block, showing initial stages of assembly
3. The F-100 is being built to be enjoyed and driven, but it isn’t going to track days or the dragstrip, so to make driving this truck as enjoyable as possible we want the engine to produce absolute loads of torque from the moment you crack the throttle all the way to redline. One of the best ways to make big, dependable torque is by pushing the displacement through increased stroke. We’re using a 4340 forged crank from Eagle that we sourced through Summit Racing. With a 4.00-inch stroke we’ll be bumping up the original Cleveland engine’s 302 ci up to a whopping 408. That’s one of the Windsor’s big benefits; it can handle an extra 1/2 inch of stroke over stock with just a little clearance grinding.
Piston ring installation in progress on a forged piston, with connecting rods and clips nearby
4. To finish up the rest of the rotating assembly are a set of high-strength Eagle H-beam connecting rods that measure 6.250 inches from center to center. The pistons are made by JE. They are from their SRP line, which uses dedicated forgings to reduce the number of machining processes necessary to finish the piston, which helps keep costs down for enthusiasts. You cannot use standard Windsor pistons for a Clevor build; they must have valve pockets placed specifically for the Cleveland valve angles. Both the connecting rods and pistons were sourced from Summit Racing, who incredibly kept them on the shelf and ready to ship the same day.
Engine builder installing a camshaft into the engine block, emphasizing attention to detail
5. The valvetrain is all Comp Cams. The truck will be using an automatic transmission and we wanted big torque without requiring an expensive custom torque converter, so we relied on the suggestion of the tech guys at Comp for the cam grind. The hydraulic roller has been ground with 232 degrees of duration for the intakes at 0.050 tappet lift and 240 for the exhausts. Lobe lift is 0.372 inches, so with 1.73:1 ratio rocker arms the gross valve lift will be 0.644 inch.
Fully assembled engine block with new pistons and cylinder walls visible
6. Here you can see the SRP pistons in the block. They have a 16cc dish to help keep the compression manageable. You can also see how the compound-angle valve arrangement puts the valve pockets in weird places so you cannot just grab a standard Windsor piston off the shelf. By the way, at TDC the pistons are 0.002 inch out of the deck. That’s fine, but it’s also one of the reasons why we were glad the deck of the block checked out flat and we didn’t need to cut it anymore. Combined with 72cc combustion chambers and 0.040-inch-thick head gaskets, the compression ratio will be 9.71:1. Maybe it could stand to be a touch more for all-out performance, but since the owner is likely to use the truck to tow a trailer to bring another project vehicle home or haul other things we decided to leave it alone.
High-capacity Milodon oil pan fitted on an engine block, ready for performance use
7. We like Milodon oil pans because they always seem to fit properly with no surprises. This is a front-sump model with a nice 8-quart capacity. If you choose, Milodon also has a nice windage tray option to help cut additional power-robbing windage—these are especially useful if you are building a Pro Touring level truck. However, the system replaces the main cap bolts with studs, so you need to plan for it when machining the block.
Side-by-side comparison of old and new cylinder heads, highlighting significant improvements
8. The easiest decision on this build was to ditch the original cylinder heads (right) and upgrade to a set of Trick Flow’s excellent PowerPort Cleveland 225 heads (left). As you can see, these are aluminum versus the original’s iron, saving a lot of weight off the top of the engine. But the big performance changes come from modern, more compact combustion chambers, fully CNC cut chambers and ports, a much better spark plug location, and ports that flow tons more air and fuel. In fact, the 225cc intake ports can flow well over 330 cfm at 0.600 lift. For comparison, the stock heads max out at under 200 cfm no matter the lift.
Close-up of valve springs on a high-performance cylinder head, demonstrating precision engineering
9. From this angle you can see how each valve is angled toward the center of the cylinder (4.5 degrees for the intakes and 3 for the exhausts) to reduce shrouding and improve airflow into the combustion chambers. We’re using the valves, springs, retainers, and locks that came from Trick Flow. The retainers are lightweight titanium, too, which is a nice touch.
Comparison of intake ports between old and new cylinder heads, showing increased flow capacity
10. The Trick Flow heads will work with standard Cleveland (as well as Ford 351M and 400) intakes and exhausts, but to help improve flow the exhaust ports have been reshaped and raised 0.100 inch, which you can easily see here.
Machined engine block with a red container holding various hardware components on top
11. Remember when we mentioned earlier the Ford Performance block had extra coolant passages from the block to the heads? This is a shot of a stock 351 Windsor block for comparison. Notice the five head boltholes along the bottom of the deck of the block. There are coolant ports just above each of the head boltholes. But if you look back at previous photos of the block we are using, you will notice additional coolant holes on either side. The Cleveland head uses coolant holes on the sides. We didn’t need to, but to get Cleveland heads to properly flow coolant with a stock Windsor block you will need to drill a couple of holes into the rear of the deck of the block beside the head boltholes. Trick Flow provides instructions for exactly where to do this.
Finger pointing to threaded holes on a Trick Flow cylinder head during assembly
12. The Windsor cooling system exits hot coolant out of a port on the intake manifold. To get the coolant to the intake, you will need to drill a couple of holes in the Cleveland heads. Trick Flow makes this easy by putting a small tick mark right in the center of where the hole should be drilled.
Precision drilling of a cylinder head on a milling machine for accurate component installation
13. We cut holes in the cylinder heads using a milling machine, but it can also be easily done with a hand drill. Just make sure to take your time; this spot on the Trick Flow casting is thick!
Tightening head bolts on an assembled Trick Flow cylinder head, with an Edelbrock intake manifold attached
14. In addition to drilling two holes in each head, you will also need to plug these coolant holes. Fortunately, Trick Flow threads them from the factory, so all you need to do is screw in the included pipe plugs.
Marking an intake gasket for proper alignment on a performance intake manifold
15. Matching holes must also be drilled into the intake manifold. The Cleveland gasket matched up perfectly with the holes we drilled into the cylinder heads, so we used that to mark the centers for drilling into the intake manifold.
Fully assembled high-performance cylinder head featuring Trick Flow rocker arms and valve springs
16. Activating the valves are a set of Comp Cams Pro Magnum XD full roller rocker arms in the stock 1.73:1 ratio. These steel rockers are super strong to prevent deflection, which can reduce valve lift and shorten effective duration.
Assembled engine with Trick Flow and Edelbrock components, nearing completion in the workshop
17. The biggest issue we ran into with this build is finding a proper intake manifold. If you are building a 302 Boss replica (Cleveland heads on an 8.2-inch deck 302 block) any Cleveland intake manifold will bolt right up. But in our quest for cubic inches, we went with a 351 Windsor block with the taller 9.5-inch deck height. We’re only aware of one company that is making spacers anymore and they didn’t have any as this build went together. The best (and also only) option as this went to press is this Performer dual-plane intake from Edelbrock. It is made to fit the tall deck 351 block and also has provisions for a water outlet and bolting up a thermostat—although it is a dual-plane intake, which is normally best for producing low-end torque. But this unit is taller than usual, and Edelbrock says it makes good power down low at 1,500 rpm as well as all the way up to 6,500. Our dyno tests proved they weren’t lying!
Installing a Holley carburetor on a 408 Clevor engine with Trick Flow valve covers
18. There are no port fuel injected intakes available for a build like this. A carburetor is certainly an option for properly mixing the air and fuel, but for trouble-free service no matter the weather conditions, altitude, or situation we much prefer to go with Holley’s Sniper throttle body EFI. We went with their Stealth setup, which keeps the old-school vibe of a 4150 double pumper. The standard four injector unit can handle up to 650 hp, but we chose to go with the eight injector version that is capable of fueling up to 1,250 ponies just in case we decide to come back with more upgrades in the future.
Completed 408 Clevor engine with Milodon oil pan and Trick Flow components, ready for installation
19. The finished engine ready to head to the dyno. The aluminum water pump we also sourced from Milodon and the valve covers and air cleaner are custom pieces the owner had made by a company called Ansen.
Dyno testing a fully assembled 408 Clevor engine with Milodon and Trick Flow parts
line graph
20. We bolted the engine up on the dyno at Automotive Specialists and were ecstatic with the results. This 408 made torque out the wazoo all the way through the rpm range. We had peaks of 546.6 hp at 6,200 rpm and 526.5 lb-ft of torque at 4,400, but best of all the torque never dropped below 500 from the point that we started the pull all the way to 5,400 rpm!
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