In order to make full use out of a typical airbag’s travel range back then, the traditional endlink-style sway bar was eliminated, as it severely limited the air spring’s range of inflation/deflation. Since then, technology has advanced, torsion arm–type antiroll bars have become more popular, and air suspension is nothing like it used to be.

But, surprisingly, there are still a number of classic trucks out there—on the road—that don’t utilize any type of sway bar at all … on adjustable and fixed-height suspensions! Just because a truck doesn’t look like a sports car, doesn’t mean it can’t/won’t handle like one. The first step to achieving that is facilitating a good, beefy sway bar. Quality adjustable shocks alone just won’t cut it—to keep your truck’s body roll and under/oversteer to a minimum, a sway bar is a must!

Whether your truck still has a parallel leaf beam axle beneath the front or an IFS, it can—and should—have a sway bar under there, too, even if it didn’t come factory equipped with one. And, if at all possible, throw one on the rear suspension as well! When it comes to the venerable 1967-1972 C10 series, Classic Performance Products (CPP) not only makes it easier than ever, they’ve gone to the trouble to develop sway bar applications for stock-height and lowered trucks—and installation is a breeze, as you’re about to see.

2. While technically this is a “bolt-on” deal, if your 1967-1972 C10 did not come factory equipped with an antiroll bar, you’ll need to perform one minor modification: removal of the forward radiator core support crossmember rivet (arrow).

3-4. Just to make absolutely certain of your sway bar bushing mount placement, first install the bar’s endlinks in the control arms, followed by the sway bar itself. If you need to, support the bar with a strap or clamp.

5-6. Using the supplied suspension bushing grease, lube the D-bushings and install as shown, with the taller portion of the kickup toward the rear. (Use the correct brackets for your application: taller for stock-height suspension, shorter for lowered.)

8. With the endlinks perpendicular, locate and mark the mounting position for the bracket.

9-10. Our locating confirmed the forward rivet as our rear mounting hole, so we took to our trusty—and LOUD—air chisel and made quick (and safe) removal of said rivet.

11-12. With the suspension loaded once again (for safe measure and ease of install), the remaining rivet hole was chased with a drill and the bracket/bushing installed.

14. All said and done, our 1969 C10 is properly antiroll bar equipped—in the front, that is … now to do the same in the rear.

15. For the rear suspension, CPP offers sway bars for 1960-1972 coil and leaf spring applications, as well as for their Totally Tubular trailing arms, which again is exactly what we’re working with.

16-17. Definitely a two-man job, as with the front, you’ll want to pre-assemble and install the D-bushings with the included two-piece bracket. Leave the connecting U-bolts loose so as to allow the bar to be positioned when locating the forward endlinks. (This kit points the sway bar forward.)

19. Once the endlinks and brackets are in place and tightened, square up the bar on the trailing arms and tighten the U-bolts securely. Now, give your truck a good road test and feel the huge handling difference a set of sway bars makes! You can thank us later!