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Hammerforming a Seat Brace
WHEN THE PART YOU NEED IS VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND IN A WRECKING YARD
1. The brace for bucket seats for a 1969-1972 Chevrolet C10 are not available from OEM dealers, nor in the aftermarket.
metal bar

BY Ron Covell Photography By Adam Cecil

T

he aftermarket provides an abundance of reproduction parts for classic trucks, but there are some parts that are not available. One of these is a bucket seat cab brace for a 1969-1972 Chevrolet C10—and they are virtually impossible to find in wrecking yards.

Adam Cecil is building a C10. Being a person who likes challenges, he hatched the idea of making his own seat brace by utilizing the hammerforming process. A lot of people think that anything shaped with a hammer could be called “hammerformed,” but the specific process we are describing involves making a form of some durable material, holding a piece of metal tightly against it, and then hammering the metal until it takes the shape of the form beneath it. This is distinctly different from the freehand way metal is sometimes shaped with a mallet and sandbag, or with a hammer and handheld dolly.

metal bar
2. This is a really convoluted part, twisting up, down, and sideways. It will definitely be a challenge—but in reality, a hammerform is an excellent way to make a part like this.
metal bar
3. Here’s a close-up of one end that shows some of the part’s complexity and the tabs required for mounting to the cab.
car part drawing
4. To start the process, Adam Cecil made an accurate, fullsize drawing of the part. The giant chunk of square cold-rolled steel bar is part of the stock he will use to make the form.
bandsaw
5. Cecil did all of the profile cutting with a simple, handheld bandsaw, supported on an aftermarket base. He said “it took a while” but you’ll see the great results he got.
car components
6. After cutting to size, all of the components are jigged up for tack-welding. The finished parts will only be as accurate as the form, so precision at this stage pays big dividends.
two metal bars after welding
7. Here are the two halves of the form after they were finish welded and sanded to smooth any imperfections.
paper template
2. This is a really convoluted part, twisting up, down, and sideways. It will definitely be a challenge—but in reality, a hammerform is an excellent way to make a part like this.

3. Here’s a close-up of one end that shows some of the part’s complexity and the tabs required for mounting to the cab.

4. To start the process, Adam Cecil made an accurate, fullsize drawing of the part. The giant chunk of square cold-rolled steel bar is part of the stock he will use to make the form.

5. Cecil did all of the profile cutting with a simple, handheld bandsaw, supported on an aftermarket base. He said “it took a while” but you’ll see the great results he got.

6. After cutting to size, all of the components are jigged up for tack-welding. The finished parts will only be as accurate as the form, so precision at this stage pays big dividends.

7. Here are the two halves of the form after they were finish welded and sanded to smooth any imperfections.

8. At the top is the paper template developed from the drawing. The template was used to cut the blank of 16-gauge cold-rolled steel on the bottom.

8. At the top is the paper template developed from the drawing. The template was used to cut the blank of 16-gauge cold-rolled steel on the bottom.
The hammerforming process is ideal for many types of parts, and it’s most beneficial when a number of identical parts are needed. For thin or soft metals the forms can often be made from wood or plastic, but this particular brace is made of 16-gauge steel, so an extremely robust form is required. Also, Cecil presumed that he was not the only person who would need a seat brace, so he made his form durable enough to make dozens of parts, if necessary. That’s why he made this hammerform from solid steel.

The first step is making an accurate, fullsized drawing of the part. This drawing is essential for determining the size and shape for each element of the hammerform, and to develop the pattern for the metal blank to be shaped over the form.

person working on a hammerform
9. The blank is positioned between the two halves of the hammerform. The sandwich will be pulled together with clamps, plus bolts on the ends. This will put the starting shape in the part.
rivet gun
10. The flanges will be formed with a heavy-duty 5X aircraft rivet gun. The nosepiece holds removable inserts. The white insert is Delrin plastic—which is used for the initial forming and the insert on the table is aluminum—used for working out the wrinkles.
9. The blank is positioned between the two halves of the hammerform. The sandwich will be pulled together with clamps, plus bolts on the ends. This will put the starting shape in the part.

10. The flanges will be formed with a heavy-duty 5X aircraft rivet gun. The nosepiece holds removable inserts. The white insert is Delrin plastic—which is used for the initial forming and the insert on the table is aluminum—used for working out the wrinkles.

11. A little lubrication helps the dies glide over the metal smoothly.

12. Here you can see the flange as it’s just starting to be formed. It’s good to work a large area a little at a time rather than finish one section and then move to another.

13. With the flange formed a little farther, the straight sections are moving nicely, but you can see some wrinkles starting to form on the outside corners.

using WD-40
11. A little lubrication helps the dies glide over the metal smoothly.
Flange
12. Here you can see the flange as it’s just starting to be formed. It’s good to work a large area a little at a time rather than finish one section and then move to another.
Wrinkles forming on the outside corners
13. With the flange formed a little farther, the straight sections are moving nicely, but you can see some wrinkles starting to form on the outside corners.
Armed with all the necessary contours and dimensions, Cecil used a small bandsaw to cut the stock and the largest pieces were profile cut from sections of 3-inch square cold-rolled steel bar. That required a LOT of cutting, but he reports the small saw (equipped with an aftermarket base that holds it vertical) did an admirable job—although it did require focus and patience.
wrinkles in metal
14. Forming flanges on convex corners causes the metal to shrink, and it resists by forming wrinkles. You can see how much larger the wrinkles are at this stage.
14. Forming flanges on convex corners causes the metal to shrink, and it resists by forming wrinkles. You can see how much larger the wrinkles are at this stage.

15. Here the aluminum insert was used in the rivet gun. With the proper technique you can do a surprising amount of cold shrinking and still leave a smooth surface.

16. Here’s the finished flange on the other side of the form, which points in the opposite direction.

Aluminum insert
15. Here the aluminum insert was used in the rivet gun. With the proper technique you can do a surprising amount of cold shrinking and still leave a smooth surface.
Finished flange
16. Here’s the finished flange on the other side of the form, which points in the opposite direction.
Close-up shot of how the flange has been formed
17. This close-up shot shows how beautifully the flange has been formed.
flanges
18. With both flanges completed, the part can be removed from the form.
17. This close-up shot shows how beautifully the flange has been formed.

18. With both flanges completed, the part can be removed from the form.

19. The flanges were formed oversize to allow trimming to a consistent width. This is a clever adapter for a marker pen that makes a line a uniform distance from the surface it rides on.

Clever adapter for a marker pen
19. The flanges were formed oversize to allow trimming to a consistent width. This is a clever adapter for a marker pen that makes a line a uniform distance from the surface it rides on.
After all the parts were cut to size, they were carefully aligned on a flat steel bench, then clamped securely in preparation for tack-welding. After tacking and a final check of all dimensions, the welds were finished and any bumps in the working surfaces were ground smooth.

The next step was cutting a metal blank, then placing it between the halves of the hammerform, and drawing them together by using C clamps (plus a couple of bolts at the end, which also provided alignment). This formed the blank in one plane.

20. The versatile bandsaw is used to trim the edges.

21. Here’s an operator’s eye view of the edge being cut on a bandsaw. This is a great way to make clean, accurate cuts on metal of nearly any thickness.

22. The finished part.

versatile bandsaw in use
20. The versatile bandsaw is used to trim the edges.
bandsaw operator point of view
21. Here’s an operator’s eye view of the edge being cut on a bandsaw. This is a great way to make clean, accurate cuts on metal of nearly any thickness.
finished hammerform
22. The finished part.
comparison of new and old parts
23. Here’s a comparison of the center portion of the new and old part. As you can see, they are virtually identical.
new car part being installed
24. The part is positioned under the cab for a test-fitting.
new car part being installed
23. Here’s a comparison of the center portion of the new and old part. As you can see, they are virtually identical.

24. The part is positioned under the cab for a test-fitting.

25. Here’s a close-up of the end of the brace, ready to be plug-welded into place under the cab. The fit is superb, justifying the painstaking process used to reproduce this tricky part.

25. Here’s a close-up of the end of the brace, ready to be plug-welded into place under the cab. The fit is superb, justifying the painstaking process used to reproduce this tricky part.
 SOURCES

Adam Cecil
adamcecil02@hotmail.com

Swag Off Road
(541) 915-2775
www.swagoffroad.com

TM Technologies
(530) 292-3506
www.tinmantech.com

With everything clamped tight, Cecil used a heavy-duty aircraft rivet gun to start moving the first flange down. His rivet gun is equipped with a “flow-forming” nosepiece that uses easily replaceable inserts. The majority of the shaping was done with plastic dies. These don’t mark the metal, but they need to be replaced fairly often since they wear quickly when forcing the 16-gauge steel to move. In the areas where the metal requires shrinking (the outside curves), wrinkles start to form as the flange is pushed down. There is a limit to how large a wrinkle a plastic die can flatten, so the aluminum inserts were used to smooth the metal in the problem areas.

The photos show all the steps in the process, and I think you’ll agree that Cecil did a superb job. The hammerforming process can be used to make any number of parts from sheetmetal, so let your imagination be your guide as you think about ways to utilize hammerforms for your own projects!