Backup Discs

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InTheGarageMedia.com

Easily Eliminate Unwanted Holes Subtitle

BY “Rotten” Rodney Bauman

Photography by THE AUTHOR

hen repairing body sheetmetal, little things can be big conveniences. Years ago, I purchased my first assortment of 18-gauge steel weld-in discs from metal master Ron Covell. It’s taken a while—maybe two whiles or more—but lately I’m running low on certain sizes, so I thought I’d best reorder.

“Is this Professor Hammer?” That’s pretty much the way the telephone call began. When I got around to saying, “This here’s Rotten Rodney,” I was tickled that he actually knew me. As it turns out, Ron Covell reads my stuff, same as I read his, and I’ll keep that as a feather in my cap from here on. Anyway, we had a nice conversation. For reordering, however, Ron Covell suggested that I call Bob Drake, who is now the source for the discs of desire—Drake’s Discs, as they’re known today.

So, now that we’re down to the short strokes, in the metalworking phases of our ’55 Chevy second-series build, we’re focused more on little things. For example, you know those three big, heavy, pot-metal badges that ordinarily adorn the hood and fenders of such trucks? Well, ours are pretty pitted. We know Brothers carries new ones, but our project truck’s owner is usually open for suggestions. Knowing so, we sort of suggested deletion of the big old badges in favor of a cleaner, sleeker look for his cute little truck.

Long story shortened: we purchased a new assortment of Drake’s Discs from Bob Drake Reproductions. As always, they’re a great time-saving shortcut for flush-plugging holes in body sheetmetal, no matter your MIG/TIG preferences. If you’re real good, you might gas-hammer-weld yours. Being somewhat hard-of-sight, I usually leave it up to the designated welder, Mrs. Rotten.

First things first, we’ll lose three holes on one fender, which happens to be a repaired original. The other fender is brand new from Brothers. Quite conveniently for us, it came without unwanted holes. The hood is original equipment with extra holes as well. When we get to the firewall we’ll try to figure out which holes should stay. There we’ll be dealing with holes of different sizes, but that’s OK. We’ve got the full assortment.

As sheetmetal repairs go, at least around here, this’ll be fairly straightforward stuff. This one’s—mostly—about saving time. On that note, here’s how Drake’s Discs work for us. Since they work for us, they’ll likely work for you, too.

1. Where it used to wear a badge, this OE fender has three unwanted holes. To start, let’s see if we can figure out what size we’ll need from our new Drake’s Discs assortment.

2. Well, apparently, we’re in need of an oddball size, so let’s go with the next size up. Let’s enlarge our fender’s holes just slightly, as necessary to accommodate 1/2-inch discs.

3. You’ll likely notice some Harbor Fright tools used as we go. For resizing holes we’ve chucked up a sharp, new unibit. Masking tape makes an OK stop sign, but next time, we’ll try a small zip tie instead.

4. Here’s the part where discs must be located precisely in place and held securely still for welding. If you’re really good, a hammer-on-dolly smack might set discs in place.

5. If you’re like us, you might cheat. We have a fleet of fancy welding magnets, but for disc location it’s hard to beat these little hook magnets from Harbor Freight.

6. Here, the designated welder chooses her trusty MIG machine. Following the first zap, the magnet is removed, as magnets could potentially disrupt our arc (arcus-disruptus)

7. Here the designated grinder begins with a ridged disc. When knots are leveled we’ll switch to a well-used angle die grinder from a parking lot sale at Harbor Freight.

8. Since we paint here, we don’t oil air tools. Since we don’t oil air tools, we don’t like to over-rev them. This cheater valve is our rev-limiter. One per hose beats one per tool.

9. Back at the parking lot sale, we purchased a small fleet of these tools. To save time we leave them outfitted with different-type discs. This one’s a 3-inch, 40-grit Roloc-type.

Here our straightedge says we’re doing fine

10. By now there have been a few more MIG zaps for pinholes that we found. Then a bit more grinding and a few file passes. Here our straightedge says we’re doing fine.

Magnifying glass checking out where a hole used to be

11. Just to back that last statement, here’s a closer look. Where a hole used to be, we now have a nice flush fit.

12. So, let’s move along to the hood. Where it once wore a badge, the unwanted holes are smaller. From our Drake’s Discs assortment we’ll use the second-to-smallest size, 3/16.

13. On the hood’s B-side, we’re again using the little hook magnets. And again, they’re removed as quickly as possible, following the first tack zap of the MIG machine.

the MIG knots were ground with the ridged disc, before smoothing with worn 40-grit

14. Do you ever get the feeling like you’ve been somewhere before? Well, as before, the MIG knots were ground with the ridged disc, before smoothing with worn 40-grit.

15. The OE hood and fender will require further metalwork. For that we’ll have better access when the truck is disassembled.

16. This side will go much easier, as the new Brothers fender is already ready to pass along to the designated painter.

Here a small clamp works well to squeeze Drake’s Discs into place

17. From a frontal impact the hood’s braces were torn loose from their spot welds. We’ve drilled them round. Here a small clamp works well to squeeze Drake’s Discs into place.

18. With only four small holes remaining, we’re nearly home free. But wait, what’s this? “We’re sorry. We’re experiencing technical difficulties.”

19. Mrs. Rotten’s gettin’ buzzed, but her helmet is helpful. With four discs to go, she’s focused and moving along nicely.

Bob Drake Reproductions
(800) 221-3673
bobdrake.com

Brothers Truck Parts
(800) 977-2767
brotherstrucks.com

Harbor Freight Tools
(800) 423-2567
harborfreight.com

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